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Portland Bill on the Isle of Portland.
Over 400 known shipwrecks on
only 9 miles of coastline |
The original plan, before the broken leg, was a rock climbing trip starting in southern England at the Isle of Portland in Dorset. Because Portland is essentially a limestone peninsula, it is well known in the climbing community as one of the best sport climbing venues comprised of ~4 miles of dramatic white limestone cliffs. We had a killer deal on a caravan at the Glen Park Caravan so rather than cancel, we decided to go and turn it into a sight-seeing trip.
Portland is an intriguing area with a history of smuggling, shipwrecks, limestone quarrying so fine it's used in St. Paul's Cathedral, ammonite fossils, and in more modern times, host to the 2012 sailing Olympics. Oh, can't forget the outstanding Thursday night music at the Cove House Inn! I even sampled cockles, which I've always wondered about which are like small clams. I enjoyed hiking a bit of the coastal path wandering along the base of some of the climbing areas even if I couldn't climb. From the hike, the views of Chesil Beach and the ocean from the cliffs were outstanding. Chesil Beach is a unique pebble beach that connects Portland with the mainland. The pebbles are so round and just the perfect size to fill your pockets with, and I did! Listening to the waves break over the pebbles is mesmerizing! In addition, Portland turned out to be a great launching point for various other sights and experiences as well.
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White Horse of Osmington,
carved into the chalk hills, a tribute
to King George III in 1808
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Venturing a bit further inland, we discovered some hill figures. These are figures carved into a steep hill side to reveal the underlying geology, in this case white chalk. The first one we saw was the White Horse of Osmington, a representation of King George III riding a horse. King George III visited the area frequently as a holiday destination so in 1808, John Rainier, a stonemason and architect decided to honor the King by creating this hill figure. Unfortunately, due to illness, the King was unable to return to Weymouth and never saw his loyal subjects tribute.
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| The Cerne Giant |
Continuing the journey, we soon discovered the Cerne Giant. A bit more of a historical mystery and not quite the same royal tribute. The Giant is 180' tall with unknown origins but he certainly gives everyone pause when they see him in all his glory! We ventured into the town of Cerne Abas and found a street fair going on for the Queen's 90th Birthday. There was much celebration and dancing in the rain!
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Stonehenge - 7 days before the 2016
Summer Solstice |
This trip turned out to be quite fascinating in terms of archaeology. What trip to the UK would be complete without a trip to Stonehenge, a World Heritage Site? Though we were there 7 days days before the summer solstice, we did not stay for the event. In fact, my image of this was shattered when we were told it was more like a drunken brawl and to be avoided at all costs. In addition, if the weather is overcast, which it is frequently, it could be an non-event. On top of that, we had an appointment at the hospital to get Michael's leg cast off on the Solstice which was not to be missed! We had in mind to see Avebury Stone Circles, another World Heritage site and learned that there were other fascinating sites to see on the way. The first was Woodhenge, a timber circle monument located only 2 miles northeast of Stonehenge. Then Silbury Hill, the tallest prehistoric man-made mound in Europe of unknown purpose and West Kennet Long barrow, a Neolithic tomb or barrow, situated on a prominent chalk ridge near Silbury Hill only 1.5 miles from Avebury. We finally made it to Avebury Stone Circles! Though Stonehenge is the most sophisticated, Avebury is the largest stone circle feature in Europe.
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Ammonite Fossil
(foot for scale)
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Lyme Regis, a beach resort along the Jurassic Coast, yet another World Heritage site known for its geology, especially fossils. It is the birthplace of Mary Anning, one of history's most important fossil collectors and paleontologists. In addition to important fish fossils, her discoveries include the first ichthyosaur skeleton, plesiosaur skeleton, and the first pterosaur skeleton located outside Germany. Her observations played a key role in the discovery that coprolites, known as bezoar stones at the time which were fossilized faeces. I could go on, but you get the idea!
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| Roman Baths in Bath |
Being only a few miles from Bath, we decided to spend a day in this beautiful
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Pulteney Bridge and the wier
over the River Avon |
and historic city with magnificent architecture and Roman Baths, yet another World Heritage Site primarily because of it's Georgian Architecture. Bath is the only place in the UK with hot springs. No wonder it was so popular with the Romans! We enjoyed taking in the sights and sounds, including the picturesque the Crescent, the Circus and the Pulteney Bridge which is exceptional because it is only one of four bridges that has has shops built on both sides, just a means of getting over the river. We also discovered that being disabled has it's benefits. When we arrived at the Roman Baths, we were discouraged by the very long line. It would be hours before we could get in if we had to wait in that line! When the staff saw the wheel chair, however, we were ushered in immediately with no wait.
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"The Royal Oak"
The English Oak Tree that hid
King Charles II during his escape
from the Parliamentarians following
the Battle of Worcester in 1651
located at Boscobel House |
On the way back to Holywell, we broke up the trip with a stop at Boscobel House which turned out to be closed but we were still able to view the grounds and see the Royal Oak. This is actually a daughter tree to the original Oak that hid King Charles II during his escape from the Parliamentarians during the English Civil War that pitted the Parliamentarians against the Monarchy. There are many references to Royal Oak so it was fun to learn the origins of it.
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